I made jeans! Ok, well I can’t really say this is my first pair of jeans. I’ve had quite the journey in jeans making. This is actually my 5th pair of jeans. The MORGAN BOYFRIEND JEANS by CLOSET CASE PATTERNS, however, reach an all new height in my handmade wardrobe and pattern collection.
My Jeans Journey
My first two pairs of jeans were made using Simplicity #8222, I have a partial review on that pattern HERE. Many things were wrong with both pairs of jeans. The fabric was a cheap stretch denim from Joann that felt scratchy and low quality, I used my old 1960s sewing machine to top-stitch (I also didn’t really know how to top-stitch well so my tensions were off), I had little patience, etc. I also was terrible at zipper flys, and still kind of am, I wont lie. The first pair is long gone now probably to the dump, but the second, and slightly better pair still lives in my closet as a reminder for me and as a rough pair of jeans for dirty work.
My 3rd and 4th pairs of jeans were made using Simplicity #8655, I have a post about those HERE. These jeans are my FAVORITES. I splurged on the flare version and used some Cone Mills denim and they also were SO much easier because they only had a side invisible zipper. No extras.
I re-evaluated my closet and found that I had skinny jeans and flare jeans but no simple straight legged jeans for comfort and casual days. I was recently gifted a large amount of non stretch denim and I thought that making a pair of straight legged jeans would be the perfect task. Finding a pattern was simple. I originally wanted to make the HEROINE JEANS by MERCHANT AND MILLS but I wasn’t ready to pay and wait for the printed pattern as it didn’t come in PDF. As I was searching for an alternative, I stumbled upon the Morgan Jeans and immediately bought the pattern. Then the real work began.
My Morgan Jeans
The Morgan Jeans are an interesting fit. They are fitted around the hips but loose at the same time, it’s mind blowing. Because of this fit, finding my size was a little daunting and took me a full day of research. My measurements are a 26″ natural waist and a 40″ hip. With pants I usually go by the finished garment measurements. I looked at the tips and details and also read some reviews on how they fit others and came to the conclusion that I needed to make a size 10.
Because I had a large amount of denim I opted to have the mentality of my first pair of Morgans being a muslin, that way I mentally wouldn’t be disappointed if I’d chosen the wrong size. But I found that the size 10 was a perfect fit. If I’d went bigger, the pants would’ve been ill fitting. Going a size smaller wouldn’t have been TOO bad but not necessary.
After a fitting I decided to let the seam allowance out from 5/8″ to 3/8″, something that I also didn’t need to do. While they fit very comfortable and aren’t as tight at the hips like they were before letting them out, non stretch denim does tend to relax throughout the day and I would’ve been fine leaving the seam allowance the way it was, a note for the next pair.
The button fly thing was a new experience to me. THESE PANTS ARE THE REAL DEAL, but the button fly just makes them a dream. Simple to install and kind of fun as well, I am now on team button fly for life and will never go back to wonky zipper flys again. The way the button fly is installed also makes it really easy to do great top-stitching without interference of anything underneath. You simply follow the guide provided with the pattern.
The last thing I want to talk about with these jeans was the waistband adjustment I had to do. Honestly, I’ve always had an issue making pants, that’s why I don’t do it often. There’s always an adjustment I have to make and its usually tedious. I had zero problems with these jeans until the waistband fitting. There was a large amount of gaping that I experienced when fitting the waistband due to the curve of my back.
Closet Case Patterns came through with an assist for that TOO. They have a pants fitting e-book HERE that has different adjustment techniques and tricks to fix fit issues. So for the gaping in the back of my jeans I adjusted my waistband by making a more pronounced curved waistband. I pinched and measured the areas that needed help and found that there was about a 2 inch adjustment needed. So I created a new waistband by adding 4 half inch darts throughout the sides and back of the waistband. Worked like a charm.
The rest is history really, these jeans came our pretty decent for a muslin and will be worn regularly and altered throughout my ever changing body for as much wear as I can get from them. Comfy, simple and versatile, they are everything I would want in a pair of jeans.
Have you made jeans before? What’s your favorite jeans pattern?
Thanks for reading!